Layered Container Candles
Add your own unique touch to regular container candles with fragrance and color combinations.
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You will need:
Instructions: 1. Wick your container as usual. You may want to use a wick centering tool to keep your wick in place. |
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2. Melt your wax in a double boiler or wax melter. 3. Pour out enough wax to fill one-third (or one-half, depending on how many layers you want) of your jar into a pouring pitcher and add desired color and fragrance. 4. Fill your container to form the desired thickness of your first layer. 5. Allow the first layer to solidify, but do not wait for it to cool all the way to room temperature. It should still be warm when you proceed to the next layer. |
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6. Heat your wax for your second pour to the same temperature as the original pour. If you pour too hot, it can melt the first layer and cause streaking between the two colors. A good temperature to shoot for is about 165 degrees F. 7. Add any color and fragrance you like. Here, we used different colors with the same fragrance throughout. 7. Pour your wax to the desired thickness of the second layer. 8. Allow the layer to solidfy. If pouring additional layers, do so while this layer is still warm, but solid. |
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9. Pour your final layer and allow it to cool completely. 10. Remove your wick centering tool and trim your wick to about 1/4 inch. Tip: Try playing with different thickness for a truly unique candle. |
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Filed under: Techniques
I make these but I can't let them cool completely or the wax pulls away from the jar too much and the second layer "runs" down between the first layer and the jar. What kind of wax are you using that doesn't "pull" away???
I had the same problem with my regular container candles. I read up on the website and found that if I heat my containers in the oven at about 200 degrees or just below I have no problems with the wax sticking to the walls. I had extra wax one batch but not enough to fill a container that was available and I just poured it into a preheated container. A few days or week later I was making another batch that went well with the fragrance that I poured in the container so I just poured it on top of that one. Everything worked out well. My mother just got done burning it to the bottom. =D All of this was done with classic container single pour wax.
Good Luck!
I love all the articles that I have read so far. I am especially looking forward to learning how to prepare the colour to get the swirl effect.
Thank you.
I actually have been making layered candles for some time now and here's what I do - I melt enough wax to make the first layer (usually around 4 oz. for the first layer of a 2-layer candle in a 9 oz. hex jar). I put in the fragrance and dye while the wax is in the melting pot, mix it, and pour it into the jar. I let that cool for ONLY 45 minutes - long enough to get a "skin" on top, but not long enough to make the wax pull away. After 45 minutes, I melt wax for the second layer, add fragrance and dye, and heat it to 10 DEGREES HOTTER than the first layer I poured. This helps it adhere, but doesn't melt the bottom layer. I let that cool completely, then refill the pit around the wick (because I don't use single-pour wax). I've never had a problem with wax running or the bottom layer melting. One word of advice though - always put the LIGHTER color on the bottom! Even if the bottom layer doesn't melt completely, the very top of it will and the darker dye will mix with the lighter wax. I learned that the hard way!
I am having problems with my candles having crackels in the glass. Even after heating the jars the wax is cracking on the sides of the jar taking away from the effect of the candle. What am I doing wrong. p.s. It mainly happens in the layered candles not the single pour candles.
My soy containers look and smell good...they just don't burn well. Rather than consuming all of the wax, it just burns the core out. What am I doing wrong...or any suggestions???
Jeff,
The reason your core is burning out and leaving a lot along the sides has more to do witht he type of wick you are using.
If your wick is to small for the container or candle you are making you will have it where only the core burns out or a lot of left over wax on the side walls.
Additionally most candle supply places you may purchase your wicks from will have breakdowns of recomended uses for their wicks.Like Jeff, I am having the same EXACT problem, my candles are (I've learned through research- it's called "cratering")too. My layered pillars actually look better and smell better than some store bought ones.
Thanks to Jason, for an answer to the problem. I will try getting bigger wicks. Hopefully this will solve the problem.
it is very good and intersting , different candles are shown.
very good and differnt candles .
what wick style/type and size do you recommend for container candle made with crystalizing palm wax melted to 170 poured in a quart mason jar so that the flame does not burn a "crater"?
After my candle cooled, it had a big "sinkhole" near the wick. I saved some wax and refilled the hole but it continued to "sink " every time it cooled. How can I prevent or avoid this?
I have lots of candles that I can no longer burn (the wicks have depleted) can I melt all that wax from what's left of the candles to make new ones?
Yes Pauline. You could place your candles in the freezer then break up the old wax and then remelt it. Make sure it is the same scents and colors though.
I want to try making some container chunk candles. I know that the chunks should be made from straight paraffin. Will I get better results using the same wax for the overpour, or should I use a container blend?
I am having problems with my wax having hairline cracks on my second pour. I am using Golden brands 464 soy wax and allowing first pour to sit overnight. reheating my extra wax to 180 so it will adhere to original. any ideas?
I have been making single pour candles for the last few years, however, I accidently ordered a wax (IGI 4786) that requires a second pour. I have forgotten the procedure for handleing this. How long to I wait before I make the second pour?
A good point in your favor. I placed an order just a few days before Christmas and received it on Dec 23. Even tho I ordered the wrong wax. Have a Happy New Year.
Frances C
When my soy container candles dry, they start cracking. You can see the cracks running all over the candle through the glass. I have been heating the soy to about 180 degrees for pouring. If I heat the glass first will this alleviate the problem?
I have a typo in my previous question. I heat the soy wax to about 150 degrees, not 180. I am still having problems with the soy cracking even when I pour it into the tins. How do I make a soy container candle that does not crack when it cools? Any help would be appreciated. - thank you.