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Topic: F.A.Q. Please Help by Adding! (Read 6383 times) |
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Scented
Elite Member
Got mouse anyone?
Posts: 17870
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Re: F.A.Q. Please Help by Adding!
« Reply #20 on: Apr 29th, 2005, 8:42pm » |
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Q: Where can I find supplies closer to me since shipping is such a killer?
A: http://www.candleandsoapstuff.com/Suppliers_by_State.html
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Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take - but by the moments that take our breath away.
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skbldr
Elite Member
"Revolution Calling"
 
Posts: 1025
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Re: F.A.Q. Please Help by Adding!
« Reply #21 on: May 11th, 2005, 12:17pm » |
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Q: What wick should I use?
A: Cannot stress this point enough ...IT DOES NOT MATTER A LICK HOW MUCH WAX YOUR CONTAINER OR MOLD CAN HOLD. In order to help you we need to know the diameter of said container or mold.
"aroma-lite" (for candles w/ a high FO load)
cotton (rigid wick)
paper (wick more rigid than cotton)
zinc (maximum rigidity; coolest burning wick)
htp (rigidity close to that of paper; tough to burn recipies w/ multiple additives)
square (mainly used in more viscous waxes - beeswax, veggie waxes)
flat ply (from one source, suggested use is for dipped & extruded [what does that mean in candle terms? I know what it means in relation to volcanos] candles, but also referred to as "regular" wick, implying general purpose usage)
"performa" (viscous waxes such as beeswax & veggie waxes)
rrd (viscous waxes including soy & single pour blends)
lx ( _________ ... haven't quite figured out best use, I'm sure it's just a matter of more reading, but if you'd like to fill in the blank, plz do! Smiley; flat braid, coreless)
Stacie
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| « Last Edit: Jun 6th, 2005, 9:40am by skbldr » |
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Stacie
"Got no love for politicians/Or that crazy scene in DC/It’s just a power mad town/But the time is ripe for changes/There’s a growing feeling/That taking a chance on a new kind of vision is due
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skbldr
Elite Member
"Revolution Calling"
Posts: 1025
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Re: F.A.Q. Please Help by Adding!
« Reply #23 on: Jun 8th, 2005, 6:48pm » |
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What should I do if I pour a measuring cup of microwaved boiling water into my presto w/ container wax instead of my tea?
Do NOT attempt to boil the water out of the presto because even an inch of melted wax & water can cause little explosions exceeding the height of your presto, splattering onto your new fridge, the floor, the counter & anything on the counter.
Instead, pour the wax into an appropriately large container & let it solidify. Especially with container wax, put it in the freezer for a little while to aid in mold release, as it were. When removing your wax, you may want to do it outside or over your waterbath bucket. Might be wiser to NOT do it over the sink just to avoid the risk of any wax pieces falling into your garbage disposal. Otherwise, you will end up w/ a pool of water where ever it is you turn upside down the container.
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Stacie
"Got no love for politicians/Or that crazy scene in DC/It’s just a power mad town/But the time is ripe for changes/There’s a growing feeling/That taking a chance on a new kind of vision is due
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skbldr
Elite Member
"Revolution Calling"
Posts: 1025
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Re: F.A.Q. Please Help by Adding!
« Reply #24 on: Jun 14th, 2005, 9:42pm » |
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Q: What can I do when the wick hole for the polycarbanate molds are too small for wick pins?
A: I have a black n decker 'kit' of drill bits ranging in size from 1/16th" to 3/8". I found out which one would easily slide into the wick hole & figured which one I needed for the wick pin. Because I didn't want to ruin brand new $8-9 molds, I drilled the wick hole w/ the smallest bit going up to the bit I needed.
For example, the 3/32 bit fit the hole. Using the 7/64 bit, I slowly enlarged the hole, & used 'reverse' to drill the bit out. Then, I used the 1/8 bit to enlarge the hole just a little more, using 'reverse' to drill the bit out. Finally, I used the 9/64 bit to create a hole that was just the right size for the wick pin, & used 'reverse' yadda yadda yadda. I am now a happy camper 'cuz I was able to enlarge the holes in all three molds w/o breaking the plastic. Party! Happy dance! I LOVE my wick pins!!
A few other tips ... [1] drill slowly, [2] after you use the 'reverse' be sure to put the drill back into the 'forward' mode before using your next bit, & [3] drill just enough for the bit tip to pass thru the wicking canal (guessing 1/4" - 1/2" or so). Not sure if this tip is helpful or obvious ... [4] you need to have a secure hold on your mold so it won't twist while you are using the drill. I put my molds between my nice pillowy thighs. Had a nice secure grip but not so tough I was gonna break the things. KWIM? [5] Make sure you're drilling straight up & down, no angles. Easier said than done. Just ask my modified prestos w/ spigots. Wink
Now I'm off to perfect my marbles now that I have molds thru which I can see ... guess I don't need super[wo]man eyes after all.
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Stacie
"Got no love for politicians/Or that crazy scene in DC/It’s just a power mad town/But the time is ripe for changes/There’s a growing feeling/That taking a chance on a new kind of vision is due
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SatinDucky
Elite Member
I love Peaks & candletech!
Posts: 2161
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Re: F.A.Q. Please Help by Adding!
« Reply #25 on: Jun 16th, 2005, 8:33pm » |
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Q. Which wax is best?
A. There is NO best wax. All have pros and cons. You'll need to read, research, and decide which ones you think you'll like. Buy a slab of each and test. Everyone has different opinions of what is most important and what they consider good, great, or annoying and is not necessarily what you would consider it. This is regardless of what kind of candle you're making.
Q. How much should I sell my votives/dipped bears/pillars etc. for?
A. Like everything else it's a matter of preference, but the average starting figure is usually 2x(wholesale) or 3x(retail) of what it cost you to produce. Research the market in your area and adjust your prices accordingly.
Q. How do I measure my wax and fragrance oils?
A. By weight. For wax it is possible to measure volume(fluid ounces) but not as accurate and can be a hassle. 1 pound(16 ounces) of wax, hard or melted, is equal to 20 fluid ounces of melted wax, which is also 2 1/2 cups.
FO's on the other hand do not work that way because some are heavier than others. If you look in a few 8 oz bottles of FO you will notice they are filled different levels. This is because of the weight difference. Therefore you can't say 1 oz. FO = 2 teaspoons, for example. In one FO it may, but the next wont. A scale is a necessity for measuring this.
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Twin_Mom
Candletech Newbie
I love candletech.com!
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Re: F.A.Q. Please Help by Adding!
« Reply #26 on: Jun 19th, 2005, 10:58pm » |
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I just have a question about hurricane candles how do they not burn the "shell" wax that the votive or tealight go into? How does that wax not melt?
Jenn 
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Scented
Elite Member
Got mouse anyone?
Posts: 17870
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Re: F.A.Q. Please Help by Adding!
« Reply #27 on: Jul 8th, 2005, 8:33am » |
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Could have sworn the fragrance finder link was on here, but I must have missed it.
http://www.geocities.com/lwoollen_25/FragranceFinder/
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Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take - but by the moments that take our breath away.
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SteveinPA
Elite Member
Is It Friday yet?
Posts: 1085
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Re: F.A.Q. Please Help by Adding!
« Reply #28 on: Jul 10th, 2005, 8:06am » |
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Q. How do I get contaminates out of wax?
A. Get some paint strainers from a hardware or home improvement store. Pour the wax in one, and it comes out clean.
I tried this the other day, and it works great.
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| « Last Edit: Jul 10th, 2005, 8:07am by SteveinPA » |
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"We now have everything,or so people say,but now this emptiness haunts me everyday.We seek the lion's share never knowing why...come alive,spread your wings and fly" Styx-Pieces Of Eight
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SatinDucky
Elite Member
I love Peaks & candletech!
Posts: 2161
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Q. What is a heat gun?
A. Simple answer, it's a tool that looks similar to a hairdryer and blows very hot air. There are different manufactures and different features. Some have one setting(a set temperature, 6000 - 8000 degree average, and blow strength). Some have multiple settings, like different temperatures, how hard the blow, blowing with or without heat, etc. Usually, the more features and settings, the more expensive.
Q. What can I use it for?
A. The uses are untold. Some examples are: heating metal molds, heating glass containers, cleaning metal molds, leveling the wax in the top of molds or container candles, removing excess wax, warming layers between pours and heating tops before repours to help adhesion, helping to disperse air bubbles, shrink wrapping and more.
Q. What's the difference between a heat gun, an embossing gun and a hair dryer?
A. An embossing gun is more like a mild heat gun. It doesn't usually get as hot or blow as hard. It's light duty. More often than not, unfortunately, the work a chandler puts them through tends to burn them out easily. Though some people do prefer them and others use both. Hairdryers are another matter. They can be used in a pinch and work ok for somethings (heating empty molds, etc). Use caution though, they blow hard and can blow hot wax everywhere.
Q. Is it dangerous?
A. Yes, they can burn you or objects very easily! The inside of the nozzle gets hot enough to glow and it can stay hot for hours afterwards. Use with caution! Don't touch the tip. Pay attention to where you set it. It can melt powers cords, plastic molds, etc. It can even melt the side of candles just sitting an inch or two away. However, there is no need to be afraid of using one, just respect it and use caution.
Q. Where can I buy a heat gun?
A. Most any home improvement store as well as Wal-Mart, etc. Look in the paint department. They're usually made for stripping paint. Often you can find them for as little as $20.
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| « Last Edit: Jul 10th, 2005, 1:26pm by SatinDucky » |
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