|
|
Author |
Topic: Link to Cold-Process Soap Tutorial (Read 6207 times) |
|
RobinInOR
Moderator
Elite Member
Always learning in So. Oregon...
 
Posts: 6646
|
 |
Link to Cold-Process Soap Tutorial
« on: Feb 28th, 2004, 2:22pm » |
 Quote  Modify
|
<--- And see Hot Process Soap over on the left under "Basic Instructions" Shannon did a wonderful job with that process.
Here's a page of a batch I made this morning. It will at least give you an idea of the steps involved in the process.
http://watersgulch.com/howtocp.shtml
So take a look, and ask some questions. That way I can update the page where it isn't clear what should be happening.This page doesn't have pictures of every little tiny step, it was hard to take pictures and make soap at the same time by myself 
This batch is "Hazelnut Almond", made with hazelnut oil and cocoa butter, swirled with cocoa powder, and scented with benzaldehyde (basically a bitter almond eo)
For recipes, see below for one, or go to http://millersoap.com/soapallveg.html . These are 7# recipes (28 bars), you can resize them down to 2 (8 bars) or 3#s (12 bars) by using http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc2.php
How to usee the MMS lye calculator http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=bathandbody;acti on=display;num=1068660235
|
| « Last Edit: Mar 20th, 2005, 7:53am by RobinInOR » |
 IP Logged |
Robin in OR
Containers: Calwax 30/LX. Votives: Calwax 10/LX. 3" Pillars: Calwax 10/RegPly. 2" Pillars: 1343/HTP. Tarts: Calwax 10/30 blend
|
|
|
Rob
Elite Member
Scrat for President!
Posts: 6449
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #1 on: Feb 28th, 2004, 3:02pm » |
Quote Modify
|
Damn Robin! I'm still SOOO impressed with your CP soap. I just do not have the courage to try this.  I'm gonna stick with M&P I guess. But thank you for posting this. I think this is really cool.  
|
|
IP Logged |
Within, walls continued upright, bricks met neatly, floors were firm, and doors were sensibly shut; silence lay steadily against the wood and stone of Hill House,and whatever walked there walked alone
|
|
|
Kara Lynn
Senior Member
I love candletech.com!
Posts: 445
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #2 on: Feb 28th, 2004, 3:28pm » |
Quote Modify
|
I think this is awesome, too, Robin. Thank you for taking the time to do it. It actually looks easier than I anticipated and not too expensive to get started.
I several dumb questions:
1)Are you going to post a good "beginner's" recipe for us to start with?
2)I'm going to go ahead and ask this, because I'll shoot myself if I get there and can't find it: Where would a stick blender be located at Walmart--with the other mixers and stuff? What else is it used for besides soap and maybe that will help me find it.
3)Are those yellow gloves you buy in the grocery store to clean with thick enough to protect from the lye?
4)I need to do more research so if you don't want to take the time to explain, I understand, but I don't know what 'trace' means.
Thanks again!
|
|
IP Logged |
|
|
|
Kara Lynn
Senior Member
I love candletech.com!
Posts: 445
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #3 on: Feb 28th, 2004, 3:31pm » |
Quote Modify
|
One other thing, you mentioned wrapping the mold with towels to keep it warm. It looks like you are making the soap on your washer and dryer. Is that too keep the soap warm? I'm gathering that it's important for to cool slowly, is that right?
|
|
IP Logged |
|
|
|
RobinInOR
Moderator
Elite Member
Always learning in So. Oregon...
Posts: 6646
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #4 on: Feb 28th, 2004, 4:00pm » |
Quote Modify
|
Great questions.
The stick blender is in the aisle with the small appliances I think. It might be with the big counter blenders and juicers and stuff like that. Not on the aisle that has all the kitchen geegaws that are hanging up, but right next to it.They might have a couple, but just get the Sunbeam (I think) 9.99 one, the cheap one.It's in a long narrow cardboard box.
Regular dishwashing gloves are fine. I find them kind of awkward and bulky, so I've changed to using latex exam gloves (got boxes of them at Costco in the pharmacy section). But those yellow Rubbermaid gloves work just fine, and are what a lot of soapers use.
Trace. After you add the lye, and start blending, you'll see the oils go from clear to cloudy. Eventually you'll see them blend together, it doesn't look oily anymore. Trace is a thickening like pudding. When you lift the stick blender out, some mixture will stick to it. Drips from the blender back into the pot don't disappear right away, they form a ridge and hold their shape, then melt away. Thick trace is like frosting, the drips hold their shape. That's getting a bit too thick to pour. You want drips back into the pot to hold their shape for a bit. You'll know it when you see it. And not to worry, if you pour before you get a trace, you'll still get soap. As long as you've got a pretty good emulsion going, and it looks like it's pretty well mixed, you're fine.
I'll see if I can come up with a recipe. I started with kind of unusual oils, so giving you my first recipe won't be too useful I'll try to find one that uses pretty common oils that you can find in the grocery store or a health food store (which will be expensive, but at least you could get them without ordering)
Edited to add: I'm just soaping on the washer cuz that's where I was banished. You can soap in the kitchen, just make sure your counters are covered with newspapers. Same precautions as making candles. It's nice to be able to do it in a spot where you can leave a mess I've seen people soap on a kitchen table too, as long as they had power for the stick blender. The mold has to sit undisturbed for 24 hours, mine used to sit on the dining room table til DH complained. Don't need to do anything special about temps except for keeping the mold warm to ensure that full gel.
|
| « Last Edit: Feb 28th, 2004, 4:27pm by RobinInOR » |
IP Logged |
Robin in OR
Containers: Calwax 30/LX. Votives: Calwax 10/LX. 3" Pillars: Calwax 10/RegPly. 2" Pillars: 1343/HTP. Tarts: Calwax 10/30 blend
|
|
|
RobinInOR
Moderator
Elite Member
Always learning in So. Oregon...
Posts: 6646
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #5 on: Feb 28th, 2004, 5:11pm » |
Quote Modify
|
There's thousands of recipes out there, but here's one I just made up for you. Honestly, I've never used canola oil in a recipe, and I don't use olive, but I put them in here because you can find them at the grocery, if you don't already have them.
Make a 2# batch, about the smallest you can go and still measure properly. That will make a loaf of 8 bars, so a loaf that's 8" long, about 3.5" wide, and 2.5" tall.
Olive Oil (35%) 11.2 oz
Palm Oil (35%) 11.2 oz
Canola (20%) 6.4 oz
Coconut Oil (10%) 3.2 oz
lye 4.3 oz
distilled water 12 oz
1.5 - 2 oz of soap safe FO, or 1 - 1.5 oz EO
Olive oil, use any kind. Cheaper the better
Palm - check for Spectrum Orangic Vegetable shortening in a tub at a health food store. Look at the ingredients to make sure it's 100% palm
Coconut oil - you should be able to find this at a health food store too, again Spectrum Natural brand, if your grocery doesn't have it. You want white stuff, not yellow stuff that popcorn is cooked with.
Don't have a heart attack at the price, buying online is much cheaper than going to the health food store.
Lye - good ole Red Devil lye at your grocers - in next to the drain cleaners and such. Make sure it's Red Devil in the red and white plastic container.
If you can't find palm, and don't mind animal fat, change the recipe to 11.2 oz of lard (found at the grocers in cubes, also called manteca). Lard and palm can sub for each other, and in this recipe, the lye amount stays the same.
If you have other oils in your kitchen already and can't find palm or coconut, I can concoct something for you with stuff you've already got.
|
| « Last Edit: Feb 28th, 2004, 7:10pm by RobinInOR » |
IP Logged |
Robin in OR
Containers: Calwax 30/LX. Votives: Calwax 10/LX. 3" Pillars: Calwax 10/RegPly. 2" Pillars: 1343/HTP. Tarts: Calwax 10/30 blend
|
|
|
CandleFreak
Senior Member
My little man...Will
Posts: 347
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #6 on: Feb 28th, 2004, 6:17pm » |
Quote Modify
|
wow...Robin...you really make it look easy! I am so excited to see that you and Shannon are sharing your methods for all of us newbie's...i can't wait to try them both!!!
i like the thought of the cp being silkier...but the hp not taking as long...guess i'll just have to wait to see which one i like better after going through it!!
I was also wondering...how long are you going to keep this posted up on your website...will it be moving to the board when Alan gets a chance
once again..thanks so much for sharing!!!!!!
|
|
IP Logged |
|
|
|
Katherine
Senior Member
I love candletech.com!
Posts: 347
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #7 on: Feb 28th, 2004, 9:50pm » |
Quote Modify
|
Robin - OMG! You're so awesome to go to all this trouble, just to help us newbies! Thank you so much for all the info, the pics, and even the recipes!
And I got your PM, thanks again.
Katherine
|
|
IP Logged |
~Katherine~
|
|
|
Mary_54
Elite Member
I love candletech.com!
Posts: 2890
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #8 on: Feb 28th, 2004, 9:58pm » |
Quote Modify
|
Wow, that was great Robin. Thank you so much for doing that. Now I want to make soap. Do you have to have a digital scale? All I have is a food scale that goes up to a lb. I can't wait will tomorrow to see the swirls.
|
|
IP Logged |
Paulette
|
|
|
EB Candles
Elite Member
 
Posts: 6811
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #9 on: Feb 28th, 2004, 10:04pm » |
Quote Modify
|
Holey guacamole!!!!! Robin, you are da bomb!!!! I cannot believe how easy it is to make soap!
Thanks sooo much for taking the time to display that step by step tutorial.
One question. Can I use the plastic molds i use for M&P?
By the way, can you please let me know when that batch would be available for sale? I would love to try a bar!
Carm
|
| « Last Edit: Feb 28th, 2004, 10:10pm by EB Candles » |
IP Logged |
http://www.ebcandles.com
|
|
|
Gail
Senior Member
Posts: 611
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #10 on: Feb 29th, 2004, 6:21am » |
Quote Modify
|
Robin, I have only made M&P soap so far because I had no idea how to do any other type. After reading your instructions, I am going to give CP a try. Thanks so much for taking the time to put this tutorial together.
|
|
IP Logged |
Gail
|
|
|
Kara Lynn
Senior Member
I love candletech.com!
Posts: 445
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #11 on: Feb 29th, 2004, 7:19am » |
Quote Modify
|
Hee, Hee, Carmen. Would you be referring to the Gardener's soap? If so, I had my eye on that one, too.
Robin,
Thank you SO much. I'm going to gather my supplies on Monday. I have seen coconut oil at Kroger. It looked like a solid oil and I think it was white, but it was in a jar.
I think I read on a website about buying the Palm Oil (used for popping corn) at a Sam's Club. Have you ever heard of this? What are the drawbacks of just using lard? I thought I read somewhere that this will make a harder, longer lasting bar of soap. Is this true?
I have some of those yellow gloves, but are you talking about the kind of latex gloves that doctors and dentists use that are snug? Would those be protection enough? I don't know anything about lye. I'm picturing one drop and it drills a hole through your skin type thing. If the thin gloves are okay to use, I can see how that would be the way to go (less bulky).
Also, I have some cheap bath salt (and soap, I think) dye that I got at the craft store. Is this okay to use? I think I read somewhere that you can use candle dye. Is this true? Did you use something like Paprika (which I read about using) in your Patchouli soap? The swirls in both bars are beautiful, but I noticed that the Patchouli had sort of a powdery look in some places. Might have been my imagination.
TIA, Kara
|
|
IP Logged |
|
|
|
Katherine
Senior Member
I love candletech.com!
Posts: 347
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #12 on: Feb 29th, 2004, 7:49am » |
Quote Modify
|
On the glove issue, I'll look it up tomorrow. I work in a lab but we don't use latex due to allergy issues. I THINK latex is adequate but I'm thinking the exam gloves are not as thick as latex gloves used in labs. Exam gloves are probably not designed for chemical resistance.
Robin, have you gotten lye on your gloves?
And no candles dye in bath products! Some dyes may be rated for both but be sure to check!
|
|
IP Logged |
~Katherine~
|
|
|
RobinInOR
Moderator
Elite Member
Always learning in So. Oregon...
Posts: 6646
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #13 on: Feb 29th, 2004, 9:42am » |
Quote Modify
|
I use latex exam gloves that I got at Costco. The box was labeled "Kimberly-Clark Safeskin PF Preferred Powder-Free Textured Latex Exam Gloves". They hold up enough for a batch. If you're allergic to latex though I was just too clumsy in the yellow ones, I was afraid I'd drop something. They seem fine for general protection, they don't melt or anything.
Lye water will give you a horrible blister, and burn. Won't drill through you and cause your finger to fall off, but it isn't fun. Ever see Fight Club? Splash in the eye can cause you major damage.
Yes, you need a digital scale. A food scale won't be accurate enough.You can be off on your lye weight by just a little bit, and get lye heavy soap. Go get a postal scale at Walmart and Office Depot for $30. The one you use for candles will work - that's what I use.
Natural colorants - I use cocoa for brown, tumeric powder for a yellowy, also carrot juice. Paprika works, though I don't know if it holds it color or turns brown.
Plastic mold used for MP - I'm not sure. I've seen people use these for CP. I'd wonder if they could hold the initial heat - soap when gelling could get to 200F and they might warp. Some are rated for both. Also, since they're small, they might not hold the heat, so you'd get partial gel. You'd have to be careful to insulate them really well.
These bars will be ready in 3 weeks. They'll be under the Hazelnut/Almond, it's just a new batch of what's already out there.
|
| « Last Edit: Feb 29th, 2004, 1:03pm by RobinInOR » |
IP Logged |
Robin in OR
Containers: Calwax 30/LX. Votives: Calwax 10/LX. 3" Pillars: Calwax 10/RegPly. 2" Pillars: 1343/HTP. Tarts: Calwax 10/30 blend
|
|
|
Sarah
Senior Member
Posts: 614
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #14 on: Feb 29th, 2004, 11:23am » |
Quote Modify
|
that's awesome robin
i've been taking a break away from candles, playing with cp for the past week or so. heh, i've made a batch almost every other day, it's becoming an addiction fast. the funny thing is, i've had all the supplies for like a year, but have put it off cuz the whole lye thing seemed pretty scary to me. but i just decided to do it, i locked all the animals up in the bedroom and went for it.
so last night i tried my first swirl. it's still in the mold but i can see one thing that i screwed up. i thought if i colored more soap for the swirl i would like it better. well.. i colored too much and now it's mostly brown with a little bit of white. hehe still a swirl, but not what i wanted. and even when i was pouring the brown in i was thinking this is gonna be too much, but i kept going cuz i was also thinking i can't waste this soap lol oh well learning experience.
also, i figured i would screw up my first swirl so i got some soap dyes on clearance at joanne's for $1.00. let's just say i got what i paid for. i had to add way too much, and it's one of those bottles with the funny caps that you have to shake really hard to get anything to come out. i'm sure i looked crazy trying to get enough out in order to mix it all in time. next time i am trying cocoa powder.
one more thing.. i have been using a shoebox for a mold and it has stood up to three batches so far. if you use a box, just make sure you crease the wax paper or freezer paper or whatever into the corners. i didn't do that good a job at it the first time and the bottom came out kind of funky.
maybe i'll post pics of my first try if it turns out okay..
|
|
IP Logged |
|
|
|
RobinInOR
Moderator
Elite Member
Always learning in So. Oregon...
Posts: 6646
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #15 on: Feb 29th, 2004, 11:59am » |
Quote Modify
|
That's wonderful! Sounds like you're on your way It would be neat to see your first batch. Your first swirl sounds like mine - too much color. I've got bars like that. Just remember when you wet your cocoa to use oil not water 
Also, the edges don't really count. You can trim and bevel your soap so it looks more even if you want. I tend to leave mine rough edged just cuz I like the look (and don't want to take the time), but I've seen beautifully polished and trimmed soaps that look wonderful. You can always use the trimmings in another bar like embeds.
Lard is supposed to make great soap, even 100%! I've got a block here to try, just never found the time. Wherever you see a recipe that has palm, you can sub lard and just adjust the lye. It's supposed to be nicer than all veggie soaps. Some people just don't like animal fats in soaps, that's the only drawback I can see. Some people say they can smell pig but I never have.
The hard white coconut in the jar is the right stuff. The palm used for popping corn might be yellow and butter flavored. Not sure how it would work out. I'd rather use lard than palm w/ stuff in it.
|
|
IP Logged |
Robin in OR
Containers: Calwax 30/LX. Votives: Calwax 10/LX. 3" Pillars: Calwax 10/RegPly. 2" Pillars: 1343/HTP. Tarts: Calwax 10/30 blend
|
|
|
AnotherBright_Idea
Elite Member
Candlemaking IS my day job!
Posts: 1243
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #16 on: Feb 29th, 2004, 7:15pm » |
Quote Modify
|
I've used lard in CP and you can DEFINATELY smell it!
I guess I also do something most CP soapers don't do: I use individual molds. I can't cut soap neatly to save my life, but, with 2 lb batches, the individual molds work great. This has the added bonus of consistent size of bars, mucvh more than it would be be if I cut the soap.
ALWAYS protect your eyes when working with lye. That said, I'll honestly tell you, I don't wear gloves when I soap. I have splashed lye water on my skin. It felt very hot and I washed it off. I had a slight red mark.
Lye is something you have to respect, but you don't have to be terrified of it.
Andrea
|
|
IP Logged |
|
|
|
EB Candles
Elite Member
Posts: 6811
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #17 on: Feb 29th, 2004, 9:36pm » |
Quote Modify
|
Andrea, when you said you use individual molds, are you referring to something that is hand made or do you purchase them somewhere? If you purchase them somewhere, can you please let us know where you got them?
|
|
IP Logged |
http://www.ebcandles.com
|
|
|
Kara Lynn
Senior Member
I love candletech.com!
Posts: 445
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #18 on: Mar 1st, 2004, 7:55am » |
Quote Modify
|
If I use a spice for coloring (like cinnamon) or cocoa, will this affect the smell of the soap?
I'm going out to buy my oils and supplies. If I can't find the palm, I'm going to go ahead and go for the lard.  Smell or no smell.
I was checking out the miller's page and it said that lard made a harder bar of soap. Also, it was the millers page that said you could use candle dye for the soap. Sounded kinda strange to me,too, but I was figuring that maybe the lye did something to it. I've gotten that stuff on my hands before and it doesn't come off very easily. Maybe she was talking about the candle dye blocks.
|
|
IP Logged |
|
|
|
RobinInOR
Moderator
Elite Member
Always learning in So. Oregon...
Posts: 6646
|
|
Re: Pictures of CP soap process...
« Reply #19 on: Mar 1st, 2004, 8:37am » |
Quote Modify
|
The Miller site has some goofy stuff on it. I think it's there that she says you can actually use crayons for coloring. They aren't body safe, so that's not really true, though some people do use them. Can be a big controversy (as can most things if you let them). You just have to decide for yourself what's best for your products.
I don't notice much smell from herbal coloring. Not even the cocoa, but then usually when I'm using that, I'm using cocoa butter as well and that does have a faint smell.. go light with the cinnamon, it can be scratchy. A lot of "natural" coloring doesn't stick well, it turns brown in time. Dill is supposed to hold it's color pretty well.
|
|
IP Logged |
Robin in OR
Containers: Calwax 30/LX. Votives: Calwax 10/LX. 3" Pillars: Calwax 10/RegPly. 2" Pillars: 1343/HTP. Tarts: Calwax 10/30 blend
|
|
|
|
Powered by YaBB 1 Gold - SP 1.3.2!
Forum software copyright © 2000-2004 Yet another Bulletin Board
|
Dec 13th, 2006, 9:22pm
Welcome, Guest. Please Login or Register.
How to Search
Abbreviations
Site Sponsors:
|
|
Home
Help
Search
Members
Login
Register
Reply
Notify of replies
Send Topic
Print